By admin on December 19, 2010
Summary: ”This article needs to be edited to meet quality standards. The information is here, it just needs organization and clarity. Please log in and contribute.” ”’Video”’: Video Format: H.264/MPEG4 .MP4 Size: 854×480 video bitrate: 1500 video framerate: 29.976 fps Audio:AAC Audio bitrate: 160 kbps Sample Rate: 44100 HZ Audio Channel: 2 ”’Audio”’: Audio format: AAC, MP3, MPEG-4, WAV, eAAC+, WMA v10, MIDI, AAC+ This worked perfectly for the Droid. 1. If you want to play your .AVI .MKV .WMV .VOB .MOV .M2TS DVD Blu-ray on Droid X, you need to Rip or Converter them to the best Droid X video format( .MP4 H.264 854*680 AAC), just use a Droid X video converter, and just Google it. 2. Droid X Music/Movies format Specifications provided by Foxreal Droid X ”’Sync Music/Movies to Droid x”’ Step 1: Connect your Droid X with PC or Mac via USB. Step 2: Go to Notifications , press the nitification bar at the top of the Droid X’s screen and drag it down, or press Menu – > Notifications. Then USB connection. Next, touch USB Mass Storage and press OK. The computer will read the handset as an external drive. Once your SD card is mounted on your PC or Mac, open the memory card in My computer/Computer. Step 3: Transfer music/movies from your computer to Droid X. If you wanna easily sync your music/movies on Droid X, just create a folder named movie or music in the root folder on the Droid X. Enjoy your movies/music on Droid X anytime and anywhere! ”’See more: How To Put music/movies on Droid X”’ Unmount SD card. Enjoy your Droid X Music/movies Now!
Posted in Internet | Tagged aac, audio, bitrate, computer, converter, droid, enjoy, format, mac, music, sync, usb, video
By admin on December 19, 2010
Summary: /* Eliminate drafts */ [[Image:Windowsweather.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Photo by Greg Emel/[http://www.flickr.com/photos/hillsdalehouse/1795065154/ Flickr]/CC]] The arctic cold is creeping in again in the Northern Hemisphere, and we’re all cranking up the heat. As nice as your heater is, you’re wasting a good bit of energy — and money — if your windows aren’t properly weatherproofed. But with a few inexpensive fixes, you can stop the chill from coming indoors and sending your heating bill through the roof. Here’s our guide to the tried-and-true DIY methods of stopping leaks and weatherproofing your windows. ”This article is part of ”’a wiki anyone can edit.”’ If you have advice to add about battling the chill, log in and contribute.” ==Eliminate drafts== The most critical step is to simply fix up your existing windows. Give your windows a thorough inspection for cracks, gaps and holes. If there are any cracked panes, replace them or seal the cracks with clear caulk. Check the putty around the edges of the glass, and seal any cracked or missing areas. Remember that it’s entirely possible for air leaks to come from both inside and outside. Inspect the exterior of your window for gaps, missing weatherstripping or other damage. Exterior repairs can usually be made with a quality latex caulk, just be careful that the caulk doesn’t interfere with the operation of the window. ===Seal the sill=== If drafts are your problem, check the crack at the bottom of the window where the window meets the sill. This is where cold air often creeps in through. To block the crack, fill a pair of socks with rice or lentils and tie off the tops. Lay the filled socks across the window sill. Of course, make sure the socks are nice-looking, and sturdy enough to hold the rice. You can also get some bean bags and lay them across the window sill. Or, measure the length of the sill and sew your own long bean bag for a custom fit. ===Add weather stripping=== The next step is to get some weather stripping and seal the edges of your windows. Weather stripping is cheap and will go a long way toward keeping out those drafty flows of outside air. Vinyl is your best bet, especially if you live in a place with some pretty extreme weather conditions. It’s waterproof, durable and forms a tight seal. Foam and felt are cheap, but they aren’t as durable and the seal isn’t as tight. All of these options come in self-adhesive strips. If vinyl’s too ugly, you can use copper or some other metal, but you’ll have to nail it in place. Measure all the surfaces between the sashes and the frame — the sashes are the movable pieces that hold the glass panes, and the frame is the box built into the wall that holds the sashes. If you have a double-hang window that slides up on a track to open, make sure you measure across the middle of the frame where the two sashes meet when the window closes. Add up all the measurements, then add 10 to 15 percent to the length to account for mistakes. That’s how much stripping you’ll need. Apply the stripping to both surfaces to be sealed, keeping things snug in the corners. Make sure the seal is tight when the window is closed. The areas where you’re attaching the strips needs to be clean and smooth. You might need to do some light scraping or sanding if you have old weather stripping that’s worn off. ===Seal your windows with caulk=== Inside, especially on older wood windows that are worn from time and use, there are temporary caulks you can use to seal all the gaps around the sashes for winter temperatures. This seals the sashes of the window to the frame, so you won’t be able to open the window, but these caulks peel off easily so you can remove them when the weather warms up, restoring full use of the windows. Look for the tubes of weather stripping caulking marked “removable” and “temporary”. They’re usually clear, they dry solid and they don’t bond to paint or finishing. One tube should be enough for two or three windows. ==Plastic== [[Image:Windowplastic.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Plastic window coverings are nearly invisible when installed properly. Photo by Christopher Patterson/[http://www.flickr.com/photos/dimmerswitch/2227042738/in/photostream/ Flickr]/CC]] You’re probably familiar with those plastic window-sealing kits they sell at hardware stores. They work surprisingly well — the idea is to create a pocket of insulating air between the window and the air inside your house. It’s the same concept as the one used by double-pane windows, which have pockets of inert gas between the panes. You won’t be able to open your windows once you cover them with plastic, but the technique definitely will cut your heating bill down to size. These kits are easy to install — just seal the plastic over your window with the provided double-sided tape, then use a hair drier to shrink and tighten the plastic — but they usually cost around $20 per window. A cheaper option is to use generic plastic sheeting. It comes in big rolls, and it costs between $3 and $5 per window. The downside is that the result won’t be as attractive. Plastic sheeting is on the opaque side, so sunlight will get through to warm the house, but you won’t be able to see as clearly through the window. If visibility is important, use the bulk sheeting option on the windows in your house that you don’t need to see through, and go with the more expensive kits where you need the plastic to be invisible. Tip: For extra protection — using either bulk sheeting or the kits — put another layer of plastic on the outside of your window as well. ==Coverings== Double up on curtains. Hanging one set an inch or two from the window, and a second set an inch or two away from the first. It uses the same technique as the plastic by creating an air pocket. It isn’t as efficient as plastic, but it’s better than nothing. ==Install storm windows== A storm window is essentially a second piece of glass fitted over your existing window. There are custom options, but now storm windows come pre-fabricated in the most common sizes. Just head to your local big box home improvement store and pick up a few storm windows that fit your existing windows. Mount them with a drill and screw driver to the outside of your house according to the instructions. Just like with the plastic coverings, you won’t be able to open your windows. Leave a window or two uncovered for ventilation and for escape options– we recommend the window in the bathroom. [[Category:DIY]] [[Category:Lifestyle]]
Posted in Internet | Tagged crack, house, open, option, pane, sheeting, stripping, weather, window
By admin on December 19, 2010
Summary: /* Start with tinder */ [[Image:Firelogcabin.jpg|thumb|250px|left|A classic "log cabin" style fire. Photo by kw.traveller/[http://www.flickr.com/photos/kw_traveller/4660176968/in/photostream/ Flickr]/CC]] There’s more to building a a good fire than just squirting some lighter fluid on wood and flicking a match. Sure, it works to get things started. But if you build a proper fire and pay attention to the arrangement of the wood, your results will be longer lasting, hotter and safer, whether outdoors on the trail or in the fireplace in your living room. ”This article is part of ”’a wiki anyone can edit.”’ If you have advice to add about starting fires, log in and contribute.” ===Know your science=== Before you start building a fire, it’s worth taking a minute to understand what makes a fire possible — namely, fuel, heat, oxygen and a sustained chemical reaction. The first is easy. In this case, your fuel is wood and tinder. The heat in the equation refers to the initial heat you provide to start the fire, whether from a match or by rubbing two sticks together. To provide enough oxygen, we need to make sure the wood and other burnables aren’t so tightly packed that the fire snuffs itself out. The last bit is simply a reminder that a burning fire is actually a chemical reaction. Fuel and oxygen are consumed, producing heat and light as byproducts. Block any component of that reaction and your fire will go out. ===Start with tinder=== Tinder refers to anything that ignites easily and can feed the initial flame to the next step in the chain. Good tinder includes paper, dry grasses, dried moss, pine needles, wood shavings, and even lint or wax. Denim, if frayed and unraveled will do in a pinch. If you’re building an outdoor fire, pine needles and dry grass are likely to be your most plentiful sources of tinder. For indoor fires, grab the Sunday paper and crumple it up. What? The Sunday paper is on your iPad? Yet another drawback of digital publishing… ===Kindling=== The next step in the chain is kindling. Where the main goal of tinder is to ignite quickly, kindling consists of larger materials so that when the heat from the tinder moves on to the kindling the fire grows. The best source of kindling will usually be dry twigs or small pieces of wood chipped from your main logs. Try to find twigs about 1/8 to 1/2 inch thick. Other good sources of kindling include bark or cardboard. Whatever you use, make sure it is very dry. ===Fuel=== [[Image:Teepeefire.jpg|300px|right|thumb|The classic teepee, one of the many architectural methods of fire-building. Photo by Matt DeTurck/[http://www.flickr.com/photos/dalboz17/295420227/ Flickr]/CC]] Once the tinder ignites, it feeds heat to the kindling which then catches on fire and passes even more heat onto the actual fuel. This is where your logs come in. This is also where you’ll find a number of different fire “architectures.” * ”’The teepee:”’ Stack your larger fuel logs in a teepee or cone shape around the tinder and kindling. As the the fuel begins to burn, the outside logs will catch at the base and then fall inward as they burn, feeding the fire. * ”’The trench:”’ Best used when you don’t have a lot of fuel. To build a trench fire, dig a small cross under the fire; dig down about 4 inches. Lay your tinder at the center of the two channels and then build the fire on top of that. The two channels you’ve dug out will pull in air and create an updraft that helps feed the fire. * ”’The log cabin:”’ Build a four-walled box outside your tinder and kindling by stacking your fuel logs in alternating directions, just like a log cabin. This method creates an effect similar to a chimney, and the heat on the inside pulls oxygen through the gaps in your “cabin” walls, feeding the fire. * ”’The pyramid:”’ Also known at the upside down fire, the pyramid starts with two larger logs laid on the ground, parallel to each other. Then lay a foundation of other logs across your base. Then add another layer in the opposite direction to the one below it. Continue adding layers, using smaller, thinner logs as you go up. Add your kindling above the last layer and then the tinder on top of that. Light from the top and the pyramid will burn down. This method works well in indoor fireplaces. ”’Tip”’: Which architecture is best depends on the situation you’re facing. The teepee is best if the fuel wood is wetter, since logs outside the main fire can dry before they burn. The pyramid is compact and requires very little maintenance, making it ideal for an all night fire. ===Summon the god of wind=== Occasionally, you have to fan your fire to keep it going, especially if it’s small. We recommend this method: 389DkzjHpus [[Category:Survival]] [[Category:Travel]]
Posted in Internet | Tagged build, cabin, dry, fire, fuel, heat, kindling, layer, log, make, method, pyramid, reaction, tinder, wood
By admin on December 19, 2010
Summary: [[Image:Siphon1.jpg|thumb|250px|left|Homebrewed beer being siphoned into a carboy bottle. Photo by Sean Mason/[http://www.flickr.com/photos/smason/275154898/ Flickr]/CC]] Siphoning fluids — gas out of a car, water out of a fishtank, or homebrewed beer into a carboy — is a simple exercise in physics. Contrary to what many assume, a siphon does not rely on atmospheric pressure (it works just fine a vacuum, should you ever need to siphon gas from your spaceship), but rather gravity (a potential problem for the spaceship scenario) and the cohesive forces at work in columns of liquid. The mechanics of it aren’t difficult to understand, and once you’ve started a siphon, all you have to do is cut it off once the desired volume exchange is achieved. ”This article is part of ”’a wiki anyone can edit.”’ If you have advice to add about siphoning, please log in and contribute.” ===How to proceed=== [[Image:Siphon2.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Photo via [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Siphoning.JPG Wikimedia Commons].]] At the most basic level, you need three things for a siphon: a source of liquid, a place for the liquid to go, and a hose. Ideally the hose would be clear you can see what’s going on, but that’s not absolutely necessary. In order for a siphon to work, the source liquid must always be higher than whatever container you’re trying to transfer it to. Remember, gravity is doing the work here. Start by feeding the hose into the source tank and putting your secondary container on the ground. Now you need to suck the fluid out of the source tank and get rid of any air in the tube. You can do this with your mouth, but if you’re siphoning gas, you’d have to be slightly crazy to use your mouth. We’ve all seen it done in the movies, but unless you’re in dire straits, it’s far safer to buy a siphon pump. A siphon pump does a better job than your mouth, and it eliminates any chance of you swallowing something toxic and ending up in the hospital. The simple plastic device costs less than $10. You can “prime” the hose by filling it with water first
Posted in Internet | Tagged beer, container, faucet, flow, hose, liquid, mouth, water
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